This would probably be a good place to show you what a dark frame looks like. Want me to translate that: an unexposed area on your sensor should read as “0,0,0” for Red, Green and Blue but I will bet you you don’t get zero! Removing any “bias” in your image – that is bringing the black back.Reducing or eliminating hot pixels and amp glow.Dark frames, however are good for the following things: That random noise is most pernicious in dark photos and shadow areas. for a star trail, you can take 3 or four dark frames and waste 50% less time (and not have gaps!)Ĭontrary to popular belief dark frames and long exposure noise reduction do little to reduce the random noise that is present in every exposure. But you’ll be far more efficient if you take those frames yourself. A dark frame is what your camera does after a long exposure when long exposure noise reduction is turned on. And when doing star trails or other night imagery dark frames may save your bacon. When doing many kinds of night and low light photography dark frames can be quite helpful. What do I do if I don’t have dark frame(s)?Ī dark frame is one or more images taken at the same exposure length, ISO and ambient temperature as the light (normal) frames but with the lens or body cap on the camera to prevent any light from reaching the sensor.This is a bit of a prelude and addresses the questions: In an upcoming webinar (Down with the Noise) I explain a lot about noise: causes, contravention and cures.
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